Anonymous asked: How would you hem twill pants?
Not sure if this question is meant to infer that hemming twill is difficult, or if you’re asking if you can/should attempt it yourself?
The term “twill” is extremely broad. Twill refers to a weave pattern and therefore can be used to classify a number of materials—from denim to tweed.
As a general rule, however, I wear cotton pants with a straight hem, “shiver break,” no cuff. And I wear my wool pants and dress trousers in the same configuration, but with a 1 5/8” cuff. I’ve never been one to pay attention to the effect of pleats on cuffs, either.
Doug Bihlmaier dropped out of prep school early. Though he had gotten into both FIT and Brown, he was “not really into it.” Instead, he decided to follow The Dead (Summer Tour, ‘68). It was at a show at Electric Circus in the City, if he remembers correctly, where he met a small Jewish kid who said ties were gonna be his thing. Doug never cared much for ties, but the kid did have some killer acid called “Ancient Madder,” so he listened for a while. Doug was always more of a listener.
After that chance encounter Doug drifted a little bit. Greenwich gave way to Asheville (or Nashville, hard to tell really), which led to someplace he was convinced was directly between the coasts (we’ll call it Santa Fe for argument’s sake). He traveled in a van with one passenger seat, a seat he made sure was always filled. Chances are both your mom and dad sat in that seat at one time or another, because Doug was always where the cool kids wanted to be.
Along the way Kathy filled that seat, and she was pretty cool. Cool enough to stick around, even. Cool enough to call that seat hers.
One day in the now-forgotten 80s he ran into that Jewish kid again, though this time he was neither a kid nor at a Dead show (which was kinda shitty, really). Instead he was in a suit with shoulders that extended almost as far as his potential. Doug was never a suit guy. Wasn’t him. But he could tell this guy knew his stuff. And he could tell those almost-gone, Ancient Madder-inspired pipe dreams were no longer just a pastel fog at the top of a mountain.
Today Doug is somewhere between the weekend and the Style section of The Times. If you pass him too quickly on the street you might be inclined to sheepishly inquire, “Dad?!” To which Doug will smile, pull his hand out of his pouch pocket, and flash two fingers to let you know everything is alright.
It’s not easy being stylish when you have so much style.
Derek recently wrote up a piece on Post Imperial for Put This On. In it he introduced Niyi (the founder of the brand and a fellow SFer) and mentioned that Post Imperial would soon be sold at Sid Mashburn.
I have to admit, the first time I saw the designs I immediately thought they were a perfect fit for the expressive, louche jeans-and-tie crowd that Mashburn seems to inspire. So I’m glad to see Niyi found his way into their stock. Also, Sid, I’m available as a buying consultant.
Niyi’s ties are a playful and inspired take on versatile staples. They strike a nice balance between eccentric and wearable, ensuring that they will stand out without making it appear you’re starved for attention. The story behind the pieces is equally compelling—a marriage of Niyi’s Nigerian heritage, American culture and Italian proclivities.
I see the tie above as a perfect summer wedding tie. Made from linen, it has an air of casual sophistication right off the bat. However, combine that with the playful, hand-painted pattern, and you have a tie that was made for a festive, warm-weather occasion. Pair it with a tan or cream suit and some beat-up loafers, and you’re basically daring women not to sleep with you.
I wouldn’t ever recommend this tie (or any of his ties, really) for business wear, but in an increasingly casual world, having ties with personality is becoming more and more sustainable.
Get yours at Sid’s and prepare for the deluge of “Nice tie” comments that will come from the bridal party.