Well Worn. Worn Well

The pictures and words are free. It's what they inspire you to do that's gonna end up costing you.
"The Kentucky Derby Is Decadent And Depraved" by Hunter S. Thompson, Scanlan’s Monthly, vol. 1, no. 4, June 1970

"The Kentucky Derby Is Decadent And Depraved" by Hunter S. Thompson, Scanlan’s Monthly, vol. 1, no. 4, June 1970

A Follow-up for Nony

Some of my esteemed colleagues have chipped in on their advice:

thehandbookauthority: “I’ve been very pleasantly surprised by Bean’s Double L’s. Best to buy them in-store though (as with all khakis, because no pair of khakis has ever fit the same in my experience). I hate anything non-iron & they meet that requirement unlike most everything a la Brooks et al. Then of course there is always Bill’s. $125 but they will last 10 years.”

pindotsandgrenadine: “I have had luck with Jack Donnelly khakis. My only problem with them is the craftsmanship isn’t amazing, but they are sub $100. Plus, free shipping both ways, so if they don’t work out you can send them back for nothing. Greg is a real class act as well.”

If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire the A-Team.

Anonymous asked: Khakis with a classic (read: not even moderately low) rise, a semi-slim (read: not tight, not baggy) fit, and a reasonable (read: neither shoe-swallowing nor ankle-hugging) leg opening? As someone who should be easy to fit (6'0, 32", 38-40r) I object to spending a fortune on altering khakis. Think Polo's Preston by Corneliani (pretty fucking perfect), but, you know, not $400. Guide me.

If you know the Prestons fit, then I would keep an eye out for them on StyleForum and Ebay. They are a fan-favorite amongst the menswear crowd, so you can usually find a new pair for between $80 and $150, depending on materials, etc. You should also keep an eye out for Mabitex, Zanella and Incotex.

I have a couple pairs of Incotex (that meet your criteria) that I wear as my go-to chinos. I bought them both on sale a few years ago from a local boutique. They were marked down to either just above or below $100, IIRC. I have no idea what their fit is, however, and I will warn that Incotex is notorious for having models that are all over the place in terms of fit.

I’ve also heard good things about Unis, though I have never personally tried them on. If I’m honest they look a bit too #menswear for my taste, but not jarringly so.

My last bit of advice would be to get the Prestons replicated. If you like the fit then you can send them into an online MTM shop (my recommendation would be Luxire) and they will replicate them for you. The materials will likely not be quite as nice as standard Prestons, but also not far-off (you’d shit yourself if you knew the margins on Corneliani-made RL stuff).

Hope that helps.

Anonymous asked: What's the goal of this blog?

Clothes mean nothing if you don’t remember the person wearing them.

Anonymous asked: Would tie loafers fare well in colder months, in your opinion? Thanks.

Depends on where you are in the world. Traditionally, cordovan shell is a heavier-wearing material (but, on an unrelated note, thought of as more casual). However, it is notoriously unpredictable when worn in really wet conditions. Some people will say their go-to winter boots are cordovan shell, others will regale you with horror stories. This is one of the reasons you really don’t see cordovan boat shoes (this season’s Brooks offering being the first in memory).

Realistically lined loafers in any material will be your best bet. Calf (when cared for) holds up well against rain and snow. Cordovan (for drier climates) would be my second recommendation. My third would be suede.

There is a popular misconception that suede and water don’t mix. This is far from the truth. In reality, reverse calf suede (or “roughout,” the equivalent of top-grain calf, but in reverse) stands up the elements extremely well. There are certain hides that work better, but quality footwear will often feature superior leathers, regardless of whether it’s calf, suede or exotics.

At the end of the day if you’re really worried about warmth or roughing it I would wear a storm-welted boot. There are a number of dressier balmoral options out there that will pair with even the most conservative of rigs. From there you can go down the spectrum into Chelseas or chukkas.

So while there are some better-for-winter loafers out there, if I was ever worried, I’d wear a pair of boots.